I’ve been trying to revive a 7900. Spent close to $500 and have gotten no where.
I did a full INIT CHARGE (3rd attempt) the other day and got it to a point (wasn’t watching) where I think the printer was happy.
Afterwards on turning the printer back on, the printer started with an INK CHARGE. This was stopped more than 7 times as I had to pull an ink cartridge out and reset it with the chip tool till I got a green light upon which the printer started the charge again. It finally completely rejected the LIGHT BLACK and I ended up putting the OEM inks in the machine vs the flush. It got a complete ink change then. I really think these inkjet mall cartridges are a huge part of the problem here.
I have barely 1/4 of 1 container of flush left. I don’t have enough to do any more cleaning other than a manual external clean.
I am back to square one. I only have blocks of yellow, magenta and some cyan printing. Some of the black/grays are vague shadows of what they should be.
I have inspected the ink feed tubes with a flash light and there’s no air bubbles in there.
At this point, I feel I need to pull parts off the printer to visually inspect/clean and I’d like to know if there’s a tech guy that can direct me to directions as to how to do this.
Reading this post from several years ago, I’m curious if it worked
I’ve considered taking this to an epson center, but the closest is 1:40 minutes a way. I don’t have the time to kill 3+ hours round trip.
IF the carts were primed properly before insertion into the printer, than this is classic cleaning assembly failure. The peristaltic vacuum pump in the cleaning unit is failing and not sucking properly. This can also de-laminate the print-head in that state. Please share nozzle checks so we can verify if it’s normal clog or de-lamination.
Printers that really need work should have their cleaning assembly replaced and dampers (aka ink selector) replaced before initial charging. These two things should be replaced every 2 yrs on average by the way (it’s a wear item).
re chips: if this was an older printer, the contact sensor wires are worn also and will not make firm contact with IJM carts. Lots of slamming in and out can cause more contact chip issues. All chips should be reset to full before any second initial fill as well.
Here are 2 scans, the second one is a nozzle check scan as you asked. I’ve had to increase the contrast and brightness to get anything visible.
I’m pretty much convinced with the external cleaning, the flushes and all of the other things I’ve done in the last month and a half that it’s probably either the peristaltic vacuum pump and or the print heads. I noticed that I ran through a bunch of piezo flush in the yellow, magenta and such as seen below. Basically my black is still filled. Is there a tutorial or such where I could test and inspect those closer?
I got this printer for free from a photographer who thought "it needs a new print head” and no, he’d never had it serviced. That said, I’m nearly $500 into this and wondering if it’s even worth going further. I’m also wondering if it is even possible. Are parts available? (And am I going to drop another $500+ on them.) At what point would it be cheaper to find a “working” used one and buy that outright.
Great tip on the pins. I will try to inspect for bent pins.
Thank you, the bowed (delayed fire) vertical lines indicate de-lamination. The person who gave you this printer was correct, it needed a new head. It was not just clogged but delaminated.
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