Installing new DX5 printhead for proprinter Epson 7800, some help is welcome

cartridges

#1

Good morning everybody,

I have posted this thread few days earlier and I think in the wrong place.
The initial post:

[B] Changing DX5 printhead on Epson 7800 (utilized with SEL inks for meth3) [/B]

"Hi everybody,

The printhead from my 7800 is dead with a great leak of ink
one month earlier.
It’s an old printer I have bayed “refurbished”. It run 2 years without
problem but…

After time consuming to find a new DX5 and a new capping station too,
I want to know if it’s better to restart with OEM inks and converting
again after that or if I can start directly with piezo inks (methodology 3).
This is the set that is actually installed on it.
The first operation after changing head is to run a power cleaning to help the ink
run through the head and proceed to alignments.
I have the soft to initialize new head code, align it and do all the maintenance,
but I don’t want to crash it with a wrong ink choose.
Dampers are new.

Second question:
I can’t do this repair before end of July.
Do you think it’s better to purge and replace inks with piezoflush
despite the printhead is broken.
Or I can let it all in place and do it when I come back?

Actually in order to maintain it in “good condition”,
I run it sometime and print a small chart. Just enough time
before it really leak the ink ( yellow channel as I see).
After that I remove the cartridge pressure to avoid the leak
and see the content of this cartridge go to the trash… :frowning:

Thank in advance for your answer."

So, if someone can tell me if it’s more secure to initialize the new head with
OEM inks, it’s welcome.
All the others components are OK when I check it on the board of the printer.
The change of the capping station/wiper blade (the whole block) make sense for me because
of the new head.

Jean-Pascal


#2

Hi folks,

OK.
I changed all the components (DX5 printhead, capping station block and assy flushing box)
yesterday and do all the adjustment today with the adjustment wizard.
As I have said, my difficulty was to use OEM inks to perform this task [B]or not[/B].
Finally after a long wait because of a very strong and hot temp in my country,
I decided to use my piezo inks (methodology 3) as it was before the crash.

[I]The sequential:[/I]

[U]Before changing the head I write with the wizard adjustment tool the new head rank ID.[/U]

Turn off the printer and start to dismount the head. With the Maintenance manual (a must need)
you have all the pictures to illustrate what you must do. So I haven’t take photos
to illustrate what I write :o
On the head block bracket, you have two tab to swing the head up/down and left/right.
Be aware about it and their positions, don’t touch them at this step.
This is not really difficult to change the head, patience and cool gesture is a good companion.
I have the new head in place and also I replaced the yellow damper because
I suspected some ink leak (despite dampers are news).
Now, I can change the capping station block and the small assy flushing box.
With a new head installed, it make sense for me to change those parts. New head, new “toilet”…
Once those material change realized, it’s time to inject inks through the new head and run
a first nozzle test. For this, I do an automatic purge with the use of the printer board. Menu/maintenance…
And…
The winner is Meeeeee !!!

[I]The steps with the adjustment wizard:[/I]

[U]You must have this soft to do all the adjustments needed (Without this
tool, it’s completely impossible).[/U]

1_ Reset print head change and cleaning unit change
2_ Print two tests that permit the slant adjustment of the head ( up/down and left/right).
For me, the left/right adjustment was necessary. Here, You can touch one or the two “don’t touch” tabs :slight_smile:
Of course, you must reprint the test and verify if it’s good.
3_ I proceed the head alignment by using "auto biD ". This adjustment use the sensor ink mark
to perform the task automatically.

Printer board:
Print new nozzle tests to see if alignment is good or not and detect possible “missing nozzles and band of brothers”

QTR:
Running a first print and say “Hurrah”, congratulation, caviar and champagne!

[I]Result:[/I]

1_ Print better than before.
2_ A “virtually” new printer. Enjoy!

In conclusion, I can say it’s not a problem to start directly with a new head and piezo ink
with this proprinter. I don’t know for others…

Knowledge:
Maintenance manual 7800/9800
Others

Soft:
7800/9800 adjustment wizard

Tools:
DX5 printhead
Capping station box (with motor and pump)
Assy flushing box
Damper
A good pocket lamp to see what you do
A very good Phillip screwdriver
Paper towel
Nitrile gloves
[B]Be aware with your fingers and the sharp edges of the structure[/B]

Resources:
2manuals.com
Gedat.com this is a German official dealer for Epson Europe. Very serious and efficient.
Official dealers are authorized by Epson to sell 5 “special request” per month for personal users.
This is the case for 7800/9800 DX5 printhead. DX5 is in lot of printers brands and is encoded
in the factory for specific use… and you can always buy a new one with special request.
Inkjet mall for the piezo inks :slight_smile: and dampers.

It cost me:
DX5: 525 euros.
Assy flushing box: 16 euros
Capping station box: 170 dollars (bayed at americaninkjetsystems2.com)

[B]“that’s all folks”[/B]

Jean-Pascal