First try


On my R3000 i use the refillable cartridges with the color ink many years now. I like the system very mush and had hardly any problems with it.
But i am new to Piezography. I ordered a system with neutral ink. Took some time to get it to work. Had to flush several times (with piezoflush) to get
the color ink out, but finally i could print a good test pattern.

I saw a movie from Dana how to clean my Epson. I never did that. To bad she’s not around, i usually do not all that mush cleaning …

I read all what i could find about Piezography, and that is a lot on this website, and tried to make a good start.

But what is the best work flow? I use LR and PS. Usually develop my raw files in LR, use Silver effex pro for BW and occasionally PS if needed.
I now that the BW picture should be tiff, Adobe rgb 1998 and gamma 2.2. So i opened it in PS and made sure that was OK.

The picture (attached) was taken in a car with bright light outside. The windscreen was completely white without detail.
But in LR i could recover some detail with the highlight recovery slider. When i sent the file (without adjustments) as tiff to PS i could not recover any highlights.
Obviously a tiff is not a raw file.

I printed the picture on Epson Enhanced matte paper with QTR and the correct profile. It was better than the one i printed before using AWB and the color inks,
but not that mush better. I expected more. I give it another try with Haghnemulle PhotoRag.

I now i will probably learn a lot during a workshop. But going from Belgium to Santa Fe takes 24 hours and the cost of a nice camera …

So i hope mr. Cone could find some time some day to write something more about the LR and PS differences for Piezography.

I will be the first to reed it

If you make adjustments in Lightroom that you would like to have transferred over to Photoshop, select Edit in Photoshop rather than to send the unadjusted TIFF. While you are in Photoshop with the file that you recovered your highlights with (etc.), convert to grayscale Gamma 2.20 to make life easier for you. Keep in 16bit if it is so orignally. This way you are getting the benefits of lightroom and photoshop simultaneously by using lightroom to edit some things and photoshop others…

In lightroom you can set certain preferences to work better with photoshop. Lightroom uses ProPhoto RGB when you transfer an image to Photoshop via the Photo / Edit In menu item. But, you can override that by changing one of the Lightroom Preferences in the External Editing pane. Change Color Space from Pro Photo RGB to AdobeRGB (1998). By doing so, you will be able to edit your images in Photoshop. To export your images for printing in the stand-alone QTR applications you can maintain the same color space settings in the Export window by selecting Color Space as AdobeRGB (1998). So this will help you with workflow.

You can also use Piezography SoftProof profiles in both Lightroom and Photoshop. But, these require a very high standard of display calibration to be really useful. For example on a NEC Spectraview or an Eizo CG - either calibrated with their own software/hardware to L85, D5000, Gamma 2.20 - the images can be displayed as they will print.

Hope this helps!